Once ‘Elite’, How Nighties Became Middle-Class Staple

The nightgown, better known as a nightie, is a staple household garment among almost all Indian women. Its flowy, breathable silhouette makes it a practical and comfortable choice for the tropical weather. In a way, they symbolise freedom from those rigid social expectations of modesty and constant presentability. From tie-dye to florals to paisley, nighties come in so many patterns that give them that quintessentially desi vibe. But did you know, this everyday essential is not originally Indian?

A colonial history

The nightie finds its origins in 16th century Europe, loved for its comfort and ease as compared to restrictive corsets, as per some reports. The loose, ankle-length garment found its way to India through the ‘Fishing Fleet’, a term referring to the tradition of sending young women to the subcontinent with the hope of securing a husband. They brought with them thin cotton nightdresses in preparation for India’s sultry weather.

Soon, these nighties entered aristocratic and upper-class Indian households, becoming a symbol of status. Even films like Dilli Ka Thug (1958) and An Evening in Paris (1967) showed Indian actresses wearing different versions of the nightie, which soon turned it into a desirable garment across the masses.

The popularity first started in Kerala, during the Gulf migration boom of the 1970s and 80s. Workers returning from the Gulf brought back flowing, maxi-style nighties from abroad. The trend of domestic “maxis” quickly spread across households. Local markets started producing affordable versions of the nightie in local prints and vibrant colours. 

The nighties became the preferred choice among Indian women, as they made it easier for them to manage domestic chores. A middle-class Indian society has always been best known for its jugaad skills; even here, they used their skills to solve the problem of the need to be comfortable while keeping societal standards of modesty preserved.

Once-elite outfit became embarrassing

The nightie, which was a comfort garment for such a long period, has suddenly shifted to embarrassment. It had created a deep conflict between tradition and rapid lifestyle modernisation. Earlier, comfort was prioritised the most, but suddenly people shifted from comfort to looking presentable even at home. 

Influenced by media, young women started to prefer pyjama sets, co-ords, or t-shirts and shorts, rather than the humble nightie. Slowly, the comfort garment was labelled as ‘aunty’ and was associated with the lives of housewives and small-town identity. Youngsters feel internal shame. ‘What if someone sees me? What will people think?’

In fact, in many parts of India, wearing a nightie in public is considered an offence. In 2023, an apartment in Noida issued a notice to its residents, asking them not to step out in nighties or lungis. Before that, a village in Andhra Pradesh banned women from wearing nighties between 7 am and 7 pm, imposing a ₹2,000 fine for violations. Even Navi Mumbai attempted to impose a similar rule in 2017.

The role of class and urbanisation plays a crucial role because what might be normal in small towns might not be the same in urban areas. People wearing nighties to walk into a nearby shop or in the street are very much normal in small towns, and people are not judged, but the same thing in urban localities is considered odd and low standard. 

As soon as nighties became accessible to common, middle-class people, they suddenly became “embarrassing.” The media and the elite-class societies decide what is ‘presentable’ and they always promote stylish co-ords and night-suits, so nighties straight away became ‘not so trendy’.

A reclamation

The nightie is slowly making a comeback in the media, with many social media influencers showing off their realistic, unfiltered lives. Many Indian diaspora content creators have started flaunting nighties with pride. They style those so confidently that it appears aesthetic to viewers.

Therefore, what once lost its identity has now reclaimed it. The fashion trends have changed over time, with brands using better prints, changing patterns, and comfortable cuts, making the nightie more stylish.

Nighties were always meant for comfort; yet people still hesitate to wear them outdoors. The nightie became a problem not because of the garment itself, but because of society’s expectations of women. And yet, the same society begins to accept it once the media reframes it. Is this not hypocrisy? Are people wearing nighties now because they are ‘trendy’, or because they are finally confident?

Views expressed by the author are their own.