Alta Is Making A Symbolic Comeback

Today, if you scroll through social media, among all the chaos of mehendi designs, what you will find is a glimpse of bold red dye – alta, which once got lost in the crowd, is reclaiming its space again. But did it really leave?

As Soundarya S, a yoga practitioner and dancer, says, “Alta has always been there, especially with dancers using it for ages! I don’t really see it as a new trend. It feels more like people are going back to their roots and embracing tradition again.”

History of Alta

Alta, also termed as mahavar or lakshaya rasa, is a vibrant red liquid dye which is said to have originated from the Vedas and Natyashastra. It was associated with goddess Lakshmi and holds deep cultural significance of fertility, prosperity, marital status and is a part of solah shringar (16 adornments). 

Alta is also a crucial part of classical dances like Odissi and Kathak to highlight the hand gestures and footwork. It remains a deeply rooted part of Eastern Indian states like Bengal, Odisha, and Assam and is used to beautify the hands and feet of women during weddings and festivals. 

Tilana Singha Roy, a dancer, said, “What draws me more to alta is its cultural symbolism rather than simplicity. Alta does carry deep emotional and traditional significance; it connects generations of women, ritual and identity, especially in the Bengali culture.”

Alta was made out of red lac resin that was secreted by tiny female insects while feeding on host trees. It was then crushed, processed and mixed with betel leaves, turmeric and kumkum to achieve that vibrant red shade. Today, alta is made of synthetic dyes made from petrochemicals.

Alta has a liquid and watery texture and leaves an instant bright red colour, unlike mehendi, which is a thick paste-like consistency which requires hours to dry.

Some common methods to apply are by using a cotton stick to dab the liquid into the skin, a fine brush to create a thin, detailed design, especially for a bridal look, or dipping fingers and toes directly in the bowl for a solid look. Nowadays, bottle applicators are also available to make the application easier.

Why Red matters?

Red isn’t a mere colour in Indian culture; it is considered to be sacred, going beyond aesthetics to symbolise power, passion, auspiciousness, and fertility.

Sharanya Bagchi, a dancer, stated, “Red symbolises love, passion, and strength, making alta deeply meaningful in weddings as it marks the beginning of a couple’s journey together. While mehendi has gained popularity in Eastern weddings, many Bengalis are returning to alta, reclaiming their cultural roots.”

Red is considered to be a symbol of divine feminine energy, which is why it is used during weddings. It is also believed to represent a woman leaving her childhood to step into a new journey, carrying blessings and fertility. Many also believe that red protects from evil and negative energy.

The shade of red differs from region to region. North/West India focuses on deep crimson or maroon for brides, often with heavy mirror work. Bengal/East India uses red in Alta (red dye) on hands and feet, combined with shell bangles (shakha pola). South Indian weddings lean towards bright yellow, orange or Kanchipuram silk red. 

Bollywood and fashion media have standardised the red as the ‘classic Indian bride’ look, making it a universal choice regardless of regional differences.

Popularity of Alta

Movies like Devdas, with Aishwarya Rai Bachchan’s iconic Bengali bridal look, made alta a fashion trend across India in the early 2000s. However, gradually, the appeal began to fade, with mehendi craze taking its place. Yet, in Bengali culture, it always retained its symbolic importance.

Shreyanka Poddar, a dancer, said, “In Bengali culture, mehendi wasn’t traditional; it gained popularity through outside influence. Traditionally, women wore alta in weddings, festivals, and rituals. Choosing alta reflects pride in cultural roots and individuality.”

The modern wedding industry survives on visual content. Commercial bridal trends prioritise ‘Instagram-worthy’ aesthetics, where intricate henna patterns photograph better than the simple, broad strokes of alta.

Modern Bengali brides are blending traditions with trends, often finding the alta too simple or ‘plain’ for the modern wedding aesthetic. Being a liquid, alta can bleed and transfer into expensive banarasi clothing or fade quickly, whereas mehendi is viewed as more durable and long-lasting.

Alta is brought to light through the same medium that faded it. Every human wants to keep up with social media and celeb-trends. Whatever is shown becomes what the nation follows!

Soundarya S added, “I think it’s coming back now because people want to reconnect with their culture. Even with Bollywood around, there’s a growing interest in keeping traditions alive… It also adds a unique and meaningful touch to celebrations, especially with the mix of modern and traditional styles, so it feels like it’s back for good.”

Fashion Designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee and creators like Ankita Sikdar and Pushpak Sen are experimenting with modern motifs and unique designs of alta. Even actor Vijay Devarakonda chose alta instead of mehendi for his wedding with actor Rashmika Mandanna, for which he earned immense praise. While these moments may seem like just another “trend”, they signify a deeper return to traditional identity.

Views expressed by the author are their own.